When I was a child, I spoke as a child, I understood as a child, I ate éclairs as a child. What I now know as Long Johns or cream sticks were my jam. I (almost) loved them all; chocolate, maple; even vanilla iced if I had to.
The "éclair" was my primary choice of donut. It was the most bang for my buck and I'd sprint to the box whenever we had a donut occasion to claim my prize and whoa unto those that snuck a custard filled pastry in place of a cream filled one. Cream filling and pudding was great. Custard was jiggly and gross. There was much weeping and gnashing of teeth over that mistake because taking a bite was really only way to find out what was inside(cause asking never really occurred to me).
I was 15 the first time I had pate a choux. It was in the form of a cream puff from a local place famed for them, and at that time I felt as though that "dessert" was the worst trick anyone had ever played on me. It was a fluffy cloud overflowing with cream and I couldn't wait to have my way with it. I picked it up and took a huge bite. My eyes narrowed as I realized I'd been betrayed. I choked the bite down and pushed the rest away. It was just bread. Someone took a piece of plain, dry ass bread and put whipped cream in it and called it a dessert. I called it bullshit (I now know better).
I didn't get stupid, bready choux pastries and carried that prejudice deep down in my heart for years, dismissing them all out of hand until one day I saw a tight column of choux with a crunchy tuille of caramelized sugar atop it in the case at Pistacia Vera in German Village. I'd built enough trust in them to give choux another go.
Their vanilla crème brulee éclair was a more than worthy reintroduction to pate a choux that was also filled with custard. Double hatred transmuted to double love. It all worked in a way that kid me probably never could have understood.
I could speak at length about my love for Pistacia Vera. I think that they're putting out the best food in the city, but perhaps my favorite thing they make at the moment is the Key Lime éclair. Its a tight race mind you; and if you catch me on another day its likely I'd be singing the praises of the feuilletines, fudgies or orange brioche a tete. Alas, I don't do restaurant reviews.
This version of their éclair embodies a freshness fit for the season. The vanilla bean flecked Chantilly is even and tight without showing a sign of breaking or weeping. The perfectly salted choux is gently crisp and never even slightly stale or soggy. Salt seems to be too often neglected in the pastry department. The light streusel is barely sweet and not at all greasy. The lime curd is acidic, rich and creamy with no flan jiggle denoting the use of a yolk heavy base. It's all the highlights of a well made key lime pie.
Head to either Pistacia Vera and empty the case. There's literally nothing there to disappoint you.
german village
541 south third street
columbus, ohio 43215
p 614 220 9070
OPEN DAILY: 7 am - 5 pm
or
north market
59 spruce street
columbus, oh 43215
p 614 221 1001
OPEN DAILY:
sunday - monday: 10am - 5pm
tuesday - saturday: 9am - 7pm
There goes my BAAAAAYYYYBEEEEEE!